Permanent Makeup FAQ

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Permanent cosmetics describe non-surgical procedures that use specialized tattooing methods. Colored pigments are implanted into the Dermis (middle layer) of the skin through microscopic injections with an extremely fine needle or cluster of needles. This process is also called Micropigmentation, Microdermal Pigmentation, Intradermal Cosmetics, or Micropigment Implantation. Permanent Makeup is the term used to describe the cosmetic tattooing of facial features (eyebrows, eyelids, or lips) to improve color and shape.

This is a highly specialized and advanced area of permanent cosmetics that focuses on people with medically-related conditions. Examples include surgical scars (e.g. breast reconstruction, hair transplant), trauma scars (e.g. accidents or burns), or unnatural skin conditions (e.g. Vitiligo, Alopecia). The techniques restore color and symmetry to an affected area(s). The results can help a person look better and improve his or her self esteem. This process is also called Medical Tattooing, Paramedical Tattooing, Corrective Tattooing, Reconstructive Tattooing, or Restorative Tattooing.

According to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), permanent cosmetics are safe when the technician is educated in the control of Blood Borne Pathogens and follows all OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) guidelines. However, permanent cosmetics are not licensed or regulated in most states including NY. In “non-regulated” cities, there are no inspections of anyone doing permanent cosmetics so the public is “on their own.” So make sure you do your research. 

Cosmetic tattooing is performed in different ways using different types of equipment. The name of the device that holds the needle describes the application method. The categories of equipment and methods are as follows: Manual Hand Tool method (also called Hand Tap or Non-Machine method); Coil Machine method (a smaller version of the traditional tattoo machine); Analog Pen or Rotary Machine method (most commonly used); and Computerized Digital Machine method (most sophisticated technology). We use the Rotary Machine here at Snow Queen Studios for all permanent makeup procedures.

Due to the invasiveness of the process, some people may feel minor discomfort that varies according to their pain threshold and response to anesthetics. People describe what they feel in different ways such as “irritation”, “scratching”, “vibration”, or “a slight burning sensation.” Snow Queen Studios staff use topical anesthetic creams and gels before and during all procedures to numb the area and minimize discomfort. Most of our clients remark that their procedure was “far more comfortable than I thought it would be.” Those with body art comment that the cosmetic tattooing is painless compared to traditional tattooing. Overall, people feel the benefits from the results far outweigh any brief discomfort they might have experienced during the process.

Permanent cosmetics utilize sterile pigments with cosmetic grade colorants that are approved by the FDA as safe for human use. Technically, the colored pigments used are suspensions containing insoluble inert compounds, usually iron or titanium oxides. The microscopic particles that appear to be dissolved are actually suspended in a clear liquid base of alcohol, distilled water, and glycerin. The traditional body tattooing process is different because it uses colored “inks” or “dyes” that are completely dissolved liquids with transparent color. We keep all MSDS sheets on hand.

Most of the pigments used for cosmetic tattooing are made to be hypo-allergenic. Studies have shown that acute (“immediate”) allergic reactions to these products are extremely rare. Delayed-hypersensitivity reactions (“delayed onset”) allergic reactions are also uncommon. Medical professionals believe that most “allergic reactions” are not reactions to the pigments. They believe a reaction is caused by a bacterial infection or an allergic reaction to a topical after care product. In 2004, the FDA recalled one pigment line by one manufacturer when allergic reactions occurred. The cause was determined to be a new preservative added to the formula. No other product recalls have occurred before or after that one.

Permanent makeup colors should be selected to compliment a person’s skin tone, hair, and eye color. A conservative approach is best because it is easier to make an existing color darker versus lighter. Colors will always look darker and more intense immediately following a procedure, and then gradually lighten and soften upon healing. For medical tattooing (e.g. scar camouflage or areola re-pigmentation), color spot testing is advised to determine the best custom combination of colors for the tattooed area. All reputable permanent cosmetic professionals will record the pigment(s) used for a client in her or his file for future reference.

When wet clothing is removed from a clothes washer, it looks darker than when it was dry. The same principle applies to permanent cosmetics. The pigments contain dry microscopic powder particles that are suspended in a clear liquid. As the body absorbs the liquid, the colored particles remain where they were implanted and gradually return to (“dry to”) their original powder color. In addition, the skin underneath the tattoo turns red and “flushed” from blood flow to the area during the process. The background redness contributes to the darker appearance and once the redness subsides, the color appears lighter.

The results are considered permanent because the tattooed color cannot be washed off. However, the color should be considered “semi-permanent” because some fading will occur over time. Color retention is affected by different factors including the shade of the original color, the person’s age and metabolism, skin type and condition, exposure to UV radiation (sun, tanning booths), smoking, certain drugs and medications, and skin peeling treatments such as Retin-A or microdermabrasion. In general, the color lasts from one to five years and can be enhanced and refreshed by a maintenance visit when needed (usually at a lower fee than the initial procedure when performed by the original artist).

During the initial procedure (first application), the tattooed area(s) will be saturated with as much color as possible. Due to swelling, there may be some areas where the tissue will no longer allow pigment to be implanted. Those areas will show less color after healing and may need another visit to be filled-in (a touch-up). Because everyone’s tissue reaction is different, some clients will need a second visit while others will not. First, the tattooed area must heal before a refinement procedure can be performed. It is best to wait 4 to 8 weeks for complete tissue healing and color stabilization. Once the desired results are achieved, the client can keep the color looking fresh with a maintenance visit every couple of years. Or annually, depending on their skin. 

The removal of permanent makeup is not an easy process. That is why it is important to select a qualified and experienced professional who has a conservative approach. During the initial application, a “less is more” philosophy works best. A lighter, more natural color can always be changed or supplemented later with conventional makeup. It can also be adjusted or darkened if necessary with another application at a second (touch-up) appointment. Shape can also be refined at a follow-up visit, but not drastically, so a good original design is a must. Removal methods include saline removal (which we offer here) or laser tattoo removal. 

Laser Hair Removal one of the most common cosmetic treatments in the United States. It involves beaming highly concentrated laser light energy into hair follicles which are in their growth phase. The hair is destroyed when the follicle’s pigment absorbs the light, converting it into heat.

Most of our clients find they need between four and six treatments to see long-lasting results.  However, you may need up to a dozen treatments spaced between four and six weeks apart to target multiple areas with hair in different growth phases.

How soon you will see results depend on several factors, including how many hair follicles are in their growth phase during treatment, the type of skin you have and the color of your hair. While laser hair removal treatment is safe for people with fair skin and light hair, such individuals will need more treatments than someone with fair skin and dark hair.

How long your laser hair removal treatment session will take depends on several factors. The most important factor is the size of the area or areas being treated. If you’re only targeting your upper lip and underarms, each individual session will not take long at all. In fact, the underarms can often be treated in under a minute.

However, you will need to wait at least four weeks between each treatment session. Thus, it might be three to four months before you can stop shaving your underarms altogether. If you’re treating your chest, abdomen and pubic region in the same treatment session, you will be in the office significantly longer.

The most common areas targeted for hair reduction via laser therapy are the upper lip, neck, bikini region, feet, hands, back, legs and arms. The underarms and chest are less common areas targeted for treatment. This hair reduction method may be right for you if you have tried tweezing, plucking, shaving and waxing and find none of these methods to suit your lifestyle.

There is a common misconception that all types of laser treatments burn. This is absolutely not the case for laser hair removal treatments. The laser does not feel anywhere near as hot as wax. Your technician will ice the treatment site before and after treatment to ensure you feel no pain or discomfort during or after your session.

The more treatments you receive, the finer your hair becomes. Therefore, treatment sessions will not take as long. By the time you come in for your final treatment, you will become accustomed to the feeling of laser energy penetrating your hair follicles. If you’re really worried about discomfort during your treatment, talk to us about applying a topical numbing cream to the treatment site. This cream will take 20 minutes to take effect, but it will ensure you don’t feel anything during treatment.

This will be discussed during your consult 

The list is not meant to be exhaustive but is a good starting point for issues that are contraindicated for LHR)

• Individuals who can't stay out of the sun

• history of skin cancer, such as melanoma

• raised moles, suspicious lesions, hypertrophic/keloid scar formation, healing problems, active infections, open lesions, wounds, open skin, hives, herpetic lesions, cold sores, autoimmune diseases such as lupus, psoriasis, scleroderma or vitiligo

• Individuals with a known history of frequent Herpes Simplex Virus (HSV) 1 or 2 lesions should begin prophylaxis prior to treatment as prescribed by their physician. Clients are advised to take the antiviral medications (examples: acyclovir or valacyclovir) at least one day before and continue after each treatment session strictly as directed until you finish the prescription, even if you feel better. If you stop taking medication too soon or skip doses, your infection may not be completely treated or may become more tolerant and difficult to treat.

• history of photosensitivity – drug induced or something to do with genetic inheritance

• Current uses of photosensitising/photosensitive medications that induce photosensitivity and can make your skin sensitive to light including laser light and sunlight

Exposure to light, these medication may induce hyper-, hypo-pigmentation, dermatitis, blister or burn.

LHR can be performed when clients stay off such medication for at least its 1/2 life or longer when it is out of their body system.

Clients are advised to consult their doctors before stop the medication. Clients are also advised to stay off such medication 7 days after each LHR.

For ex, isotretinoin, such as Accutane, wait at least 6 months after the completion of such therapy before starting/resuming LHR. Isotretinoin temporary decreases the production of sebum and reduces the size of sebaceous glands. Some of the side effects of isotretinoin are dry skin, chapped lips, a weakened ability to heal wounds. Therefore, it is not advisable to do LHR while on Accutane as this could increase the risk of burn or scarring from the laser/IPL treatments.

• Hydroquinone, skin brightener, skin lightening or bleaching agent – Stay off them for at least 7 days prior to and after each LHR due to higher risk of pigmentation complications

• Pregnancy, trying to get pregnant, or during breastfeeding

• Seizure disorders including light-triggered seizures

• Intramuscular gold therapy

• Individuals who are currently taking anticoagulants, blood thinners, iron supplements, herbal supplements such as ginkgo, ginseng or garlic may bruise more readily.

• Individuals with implanted medical devices such as Pacemakers, cardioverters, and other implantable devices or fillers, please consult your physician.

• Here, we do NOT treat clients with recently tanned skin or fake tan. Blisters, burns, hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation may occur. Allow tan to fade prior to treatment. When in doubt, compare treatment area with limited sun exposure area such as your bum

Natural tanning or artificial tanning products darken the surface of the skin. When the surface of the skin darkens, more laser energy will be absorbed by the skin's surface rather than by the hair - our main target. When too much light energy is absorbed at the skin surface, not only it posts higher risk for burn, but also less result in hair reduction.

Other places can treat tan skin because they use low settings to lower risks of over treatments such as burn. But this will ruin clients' ultimate results to have the uttermost hair reduction in the long run.

• For clients with sensitive skin and histamine, or have a history of allergy, hay fever, asthma, eczema, prolonged erythema or edema, taking oral anti-histamine 12-48 hours before & after laser treatment is optionally recommended. Prescribed topical corticosteroids may also be another option. Click here for possible adverse effects of corticosteroid creams.

Unfortunately, laser hair removal is not permanent. Electrolysis is the only FDA-approved treatment for completely removing unwanted hair. However, laser hair removal treatment does reduce hair growth to the point that you will never need to shave again. Therefore, it is considered to be a permanent solution.

Predictability

There are slight variations in how many treatments are necessary for your final results to be achieved, but it can be safely generalized that individuals with pale skin and dark hair need only a few treatments in smaller areas, like the underarms and upper lip.

Larger areas will require between four and six treatments.

Speed

Speed is probably the most significant benefit of laser treatment for hair reduction. Each laser pulse takes only a fraction of a second and can treat several hairs at once. In fact, our lasers can treat a region roughly the size of a quarter every second.

While spending four hours having your hair treated over the course of four months may sound like a lot, consider how often you shave your legs. Even if it only takes you five minutes to shave your legs, and you only shave every other day, you will have spent an hour shaving your legs every 24 days. If you schedule your first laser appointment in January, you could have hairless legs by May. This will leave you the entire summer to enjoy the sun without worrying about razor bumps or razor burn.

It’s important to understand that a little preparation goes into laser hair reduction. Six weeks before your treatment, limit electrolysis, plucking and waxing. The laser targets the roots of your hair. While you might want a smooth, hairless upper lip before your treatment, waxing and plucking temporarily remove the roots of your hairs and make it harder for the laser to work properly. You can, however, continue to shave.

You must also avoid unprotected sun exposure for the six weeks prior to and following your treatment. If you go outside, put on sunscreen with a broad spectrum sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 55. If you have very fair skin, you may need an SPF of at least 75. Remember to reapply your sunscreen every four to six hours. You should also remember that clothing does not block the damaging rays of the sun effectively. Do not consider your clothes a replacement to sunscreen.

Ice will be applied to the treatment site to numb it unless you mention that you want a topical numbing cream. Once the treatment site has been numbed, the laser will be calibrated to the unique location, thickness and color of your hair, as well as your skin tone.

Depending on what part of your body is being treated, you may be given eye protection specifically designed to protect your eyes from the bright laser light. This is particularly important when areas such as your upper lip, neck and chest are being treated. If cold laser therapy is not used to treat your unwanted hair, you will be given a cold gel to protect the superficial layers of your skin while helping the laser light penetrate the deeper layers of your skin.

After treatment, you will be given an ice pack to soothe your skin. You are strongly encouraged to schedule your next treatment for four to six weeks after your first treatment. The day after your treatment, you can wear makeup and moisturize as you normally would. Over the next four weeks, the hairs that were in their growth phase during treatment will fall out. When they start to grow back several months from now, they will grow back much finer and lighter than they used to.

Not all the hairs in your treatment area are in their growth phase at the same time. Since the lasers only treat hair in their growth phase, you will need several treatments to target all the hairs in a treatment area.

I’ve never been waxed before. How is it done?

Waxing is the most common method of hair removal in spas today. Hair on any part of the body or face can be waxed. Warm wax is applied to the area and then removed, bringing the hair with it. There are two types of wax: hard and soft. Hard wax, which is easier on delicate skin, is often used on the face, underarms, and bikini area. Soft wax is used on the legs, arms, back, and chest.

Waxing reduces hair growth when performed at regular 30-day intervals. Because waxing pulls the hair out by the root, it grows back softer, finer, and thinner. The more you wax, the less hair grows back.

Waxing should not be performed if you have particularly sensitive skin, because it pulls off a couple of layers of skin cells along with the hair. Waxing can cause tenderness and swelling. In addition, some medications will cause the skin to react badly to waxing. Don’t wax if you’re taking Retin-A, Accutane, or any type of acne prescription.

Preparing for treatment

Let the hair grow out to about a half-inch above the skin. If hairs are too short, the wax won’t adhere strongly enough to pull them out. Refrain from taking a shower or bath before the treatment. Soaking the hair will soften it, allowing it to break more easily and making waxing less effective. Do not apply lotion to the skin before your waxing session.

What to expect

An antiseptic lotion may be applied to cleanse the area first. Some estheticians apply a light dusting of baby powder to be sure the skin is dry before applying the wax.

If soft wax is being used, the warm wax will be spread on the hairs in a thin layer. A cloth strip (muslin or pellon) is then applied to the wax, and rubbed in the direction of hair growth. The strip is then pulled quickly in the opposite direction of hair growth while the skin is held taut with the other hand.

If hard wax is being used, a thicker amount of warm wax is applied and allowed to dry. No cloth strip is applied. The wax is flicked to allow the esthetician to grip it, and it is then pulled off quickly in the opposite direction of hair growth. Hard wax doesn’t adhere to the skin as much as soft wax, and is therefore used on more delicate areas such as the bikini area, underarms and face.

How much does it hurt?

Most people tolerate it well, and get used to the sensation after a few treatments. The level of discomfort you will feel depends on your level of pain tolerance in general, and on which area is being waxed. If you still find waxing very uncomfortable after several treatments, many estheticians offer numbing crèmes that can be applied 45 minutes prior to the service. Clients are also recommended to take two ibuprofen tablets prior to their appointment, to reduce discomfort and decrease inflammation in the post-waxed area. For women, it is generally best not to schedule waxing services just prior to or during your period, as you are more sensitive to pain at this time and will experience more discomfort.

Home care after waxing

It’s important to care for the waxed area properly after treatment to prevent ingrown hairs, breakouts, or other reactions. Exfoliation, using a pumice stone or exfoliating gloves with a bath gel, will help keep the skin clear. Avoid using a bar soap because it leaves a film on the body that could cause ingrown hairs. For the face, back, and chest, use a more gentle exfoliant and an anti-breakout lotion (ask your waxer about recommended products). Directly after waxing, avoid direct sunlight and tanning booths, especially while the skin is still red from treatment. For 24 hours after waxing, avoid exercise, hot tubs, and products with harsh chemicals, perfumes, or dyes. Apply a gentle moisturizer 24 hours after treatment.

Many people are familiar with bikini waxing, which removes pubic and leg hair that would otherwise show when a bathing suit is worn. Brazilian waxing got its start with the daring bathing suits worn by both sexes on Brazil’s sunny beaches. It is now common in the United States and is preferred by many for the sleek feeling it provides.

The treatment involves waxing off all pubic and labial hair from front to back for women and all genital hair for men, including that on the penis and scrotum. A full Brazilian wax involves the removal of all genital hair. You can also request a variation on the standard Brazilian if you prefer to leave a small amount of hair.

What to expect

Try to arrive relaxed and ready to bare all. There is no modest way to receive a Brazilian wax. Your esthetician is a professional, and your dignity as a person will be respected in the treatment room.

Be ready to fill out a questionnaire and describe what medications and skin care products you are using. For women, it is best not to schedule a wax just before or during your period as it generally will feel more uncomfortable to be waxed at that time of the month. You can take 1-2 ibuprofen 30 minutes prior to your appointment to decrease sensitivity and inflammatory response following waxing. There are also numbing crèmes that can be applied 30-45 minutes prior to your appointment that help minimize the discomfort of waxing. Ask your esthetician for suggestions.

You should trim the hair to ½” in length for best results prior to your appointment.  If it’s shorter, the wax may not be effective, and if the hair is longer the wax will tug on the skin more, causing more discomfort. If you do not have time to trim prior to your appointment, be sure to let your esthetician know so that she can add extra time to your appointment for trimming.

Your esthetician will use an antiseptic wipe or lotion on the area first to cleanse. Wax is applied to the area one section at a time. The wax is removed quickly and pressure is applied to the area to minimize discomfort. Cool compresses and soothing gel after the treatment also help to calm and sooth the area. It is normal to have a histamine reaction following waxing in this area, in which you may see red irritated skin and bumps for 24 hours or even longer. This is very common and will subside.

Your esthetician has learned the best techniques for removing the hair efficiently and effectively. Some of the positions you may be asked to be in may be a little embarrassing, but your esthetician is a professional who does this type of waxing frequently and will be very professional and understanding with you.

What about home care?

Your esthetician can provide the best guidance on caring for your skin after a treatment. For 24 hours following a Brazilian waxing, you should not sunbathe, use a tanning bed, use a hot tub, be sexually intimate, or perform exercise that will cause significant sweating. Loose clothing worn after the appointment is the most comfortable.

Keep the area clean and gently exfoliate the area to prevent ingrown hairs.  Special products can be purchased for this. Your esthetician will recommend which products will be best for you.

If you decide you want to continue sporting your Brazilian style, waxing at approximately four-week intervals is recommended to reduce discomfort on follow-up visits. In time, less hair will grow back, and it will become finer and lighter in color.